The Man From Ingelistan

Howdy,
Well I've made it to Tehran. I have many stories to tell but will keep it simple for the time being.

On Thursday I collected my visa from the Iranian embassy at 10:22 precisely. Knowing how crap Erzurum was and that the next day, Friday, the border would be shut, I ran. 300km to the border riding like a possessed nutter on a mission. I was through the border in about 1 hour, thanks possible to several 'fixers' who grabbed my passport and carnet and made sure everything was inspected and stamped. I had no idea who these people were since no one seemed to wear any uniforms to add to the confusion. Once through customs I was told I needed insurance, fair enough. The fixer told me 2.5 million Rhial for insurance, about $250. Several minutes later he said 2million Rhial and I got suspicious. I had to leave my bike in a quarantine area whilst I went to get my insurance and after much haggling, got the price down to 800,000 Rhial ($80). This included the tip to the fixer of about 300,000 Rhial. I was pretty miffed off but put it down to experience. First impressions of Iran were not good.

I then tried to get as far on as possibly, since my visa is valid only for 13 days. In my efforts to secure a visa, the shorter time you are in Iran the better. I may be able to get it extended but am working on the principle that I will not. Anyways, after riding through sandstorms I discovered that my front fork seals are leaking - hmmmm..... I decided to kip in Khoy at a tourist hotel. Arriving slightly after dark I met a couple of Germans (how useful being able to speak Deutsch is!) who introduced me to Iranian beer! Non-alchoholic mind, but comes in lemon or peach flavour and the lemon is fantastic after a tiring days ride.
I had a decent meal of chicken, rice and salad together with awful flat bread which is like eating wallpaper.

The next day I planned to make it to the valley of the Assassins. A good 800km away. George and Morgan gave me the tip off and it was worth it. Some good fun twisties, I arrived just before sunset and found Ali's guesthouse where I was shown a tiny courtyard up a steep alley to park my bike. Getting in was fun but at least it was secure away from nosey folk who love to oggle at a 640cc beast. (Only the police in Iran are allowed bikes bigger than 150cc so I am somewhat of a superstar - plus bikes aren't allowed on the motorways but balls to that. Several police have tried to make me get off but I've just waved and kept going)
A quick walk up to the castle where I met a couple of other tourists from Tehran who took my photos since they had never met anyone from Ingelistan.

The next day I tinkered with the bike, annoying my hosts no doubt, since they couldn't belive I would take everything apart in their courtyard rather than go to a garage. They still helped me change my tyres. The most exercise I've ever had was changing the rear, Crikey it was a stubborn bastard. It too me 2 hours to get off, then another hour to get the new one on. I also tried to clean my fork seals and stop the leaking with no joy.

I finished getting dirty at about 3pm and made the decision to hotfoot it to Tehran. Traffic here is a nightmare. Basically anything goes. Any hole is a goal. At first I was scared of making a big mess on my lovely Sheepskin seat, but then I got into the spirit of things since there are lots of little bikes who were awestruck at mine. I had great fun riding as king in my own little gang who followed me around for ages and tried to keep up as I wheelied down the street away from them. I was hit by other cars twice and clipped someone with my panniers once, but despite the chaos, the Iranians are awesome drivers. Its still a very harrowing experience trying to cross the street.

My GPS was a blessing since it has pretty good mapping for the city and I was able to find where my hotel was together with the help of a biker called Mustaffa who helped me carry my bags in, then took me to somwhere discreet to park since the street would be too dangerous. I was a little suspicous at first but before we got the parking place we stopped and he got me some chay and some roll filled with dates and cheese. It turns out the parking place is about 800m from the hotel and is a courtyard with a guard 24/7. I got a slip of paper and chained the bike up like a gimp and felt happy about leaving it. Unless you go in to park there, which few people do, no one would see it. It was still there when I went back late last night and again this morning.

This morning I went to the British Embassy, like Fort Knox trying to get in. I got a letter of reccomendation and went to the Pakistani Embassy to apply for my visa. They said ring up on Tuesday, so I have a couple of days to chill after my hectic ride here. I plan on stocking up on essentials and trying to sort the leaky seals as well as maybe doing some sight seeing.

Morgan and George (hi guys!) may be coming to Tehran but if I dont see you how does meeting up in Bam sound? Facebook is apparantly barred here (am trying to get on it as we speak) so that method of communication is out.

Right, well I'm off now to try to solve my leaky seals and to generally be a tourist. Ciaow for now.

P.s Answers to Mother questions, yes the weather here is nice, and I am wearing clean underpants.